L’Aid el fitre, also known as Esseghir, is a religious festival that lasts three days and marks the end of Ramadan and its associated fast. During Ramadan, Muslims do not indulge in any of the primary necessities (food, drink, marital relations) from dawn to dusk.

People go to the mosque at sunrise to say the prayer of “El Aid,” after first having given “fitra” (charity) to those more needy than themselves. When they leave the mosque, it is customary to salute one another by first engaging the thumb of the interlocutor, and then grasping the entire hand in a firm handshake. At times the handshake is accompanied by a brief kiss on each cheek. Kairouanese funerary greetings must not be forgotten (“Harham sidi”). In the countryside people greet one another by grasping the other’s shoulders. At home, in the street, or at the café, the same ceremonial salutation of wishes for l’Aid can be observed, a salutation repeated many times throughout the day. This ritual can last an entire week.

In a Muslim society, l’Aid constitutes the most suitable moment to talk, to reconcile with people one might have had differences with, to ask for forgiveness, and to pardon the transgressions of others (“Aid smah” or the Feast of Pardon).

The head of the household starts the day by receiving the wishes of his own family. The table is set, and dishes with local pastries made during the last half of Ramadan are put before him. The father then compliments his children on their clothes and general appearance before giving them “aidhom” (special Aid pocket money). Children also visit relatives to present their wishes, “Iaydou,” and receive coins in return. They then go in small groups either to The Casino (a local movie theatre) where a special matinee has been planned, or else to the “Rhaba,” or Tunis Square, where they can ride wooden horses, play on swings (“dirjaha”), ride on a cart (“kerrita”) pulled by a donkey, or a smaller cart (“berouita”) pulled by a man. Finally, they can watch an improvised show performed by a “boussadia” (itinerant dancer of black African origin).

Others prefer to use a coin worth five francs, “bdourou” (apparently from the Spanish) to ride around the city in the carriage owned by the famous Lamine, or to hitch a ride in a Louage car (a sort of communal taxi; the equivalent of the West African Mammy wagon). These ancient cars constitute an adventure in and of themselves since their motors are old and undependable, some must be jump-started, and the vehicles are often rusting apart at the seams. Passengers pile in, one on top of the other, while the chauffeur blows his horn to the great joy of everyone.

On the way home, a stop is often made at the souk in the area known as “bab tounes,” where old toys such as “zommara” (horns), a bag of “gazgaz” (marbles) or a lot of “choufakha” (balloons) can be bought at the shop of “baiek Samouna.” A small portion of Halwa (a variation of Tunisian pastry) is often purchased, and little girls clamor for an “aroussa” (doll) or for a “darbouka” (a percussion instrument made of a clay or metal pot covered by a taut goat skin).

Once people reach their “houma” (neighborhood), they keep their eyes open for the itinerant seller of Frigolo, Granite, and Gazouz (soda waters). That night everyone goes to bed bankrupt, surrounded by toys and cookie crumbs, but happy to have been able to spend so much money. The day has been superb for all.

The afternoon of the 2nd and 3rd days is reserved for family visits, to request “rida el walidine” (the blessing of parents/relatives). Visitors are literally sprinkled with “kounoulia” (cologne water), “zhar” (cherry water), or “ma ward” (rose water), all distilled at the home of each host in a traditional “kattar” (copper still). The customary treats called “Makhroudh” (typical Kairouanese pastries) are served, and it is required of all to taste at least one so as not to insult the generosity of one’s hosts.

On the first day of l’Aid, all families who have lost a member during the year set up a tent on the tomb, pay a “Meddeb” to recite a few verses of the Coran, and show charity to the poor.

In my own childhood the sight of the crescent moon determined the beginning of the lunar month (1st chaoual). Today there is controversy that continues to divide the Arab world. Some claim to have seen the crescent through a telescope; others demand the sighting be done with the naked eye; still others protest they’ve neither seen nor heard of any new moon at all. The unfortunate result is that some celebrate l’Aid one day, while others celebrate it only the following day.

And yet, much controversy could be avoided if people would simply consult the Cairo Observatory, the largest institution of its kind in the Muslim world. In order to avoid quarrels, scientists running the observatory calculate important dates according to meticulous astronomical observations. Egyptians have always been masters in the art of astronomy – 5000 years ago, they already figured the circumference of the earth by comparing the difference between the height of the sun in Alexandria and that of Assouan during summer solstice.

Arabs who are attached to tradition prefer to observe the moon with the naked eye rather than use western technology, and perhaps forget the “hadiths” of the Prophet Mohamed who said that “all those who aspire to knowledge worship God.” The latest development is that the Islamic Conference has decided to acquire a satellite in two years’ time, one that will be able to observe the crescent moon as closely as possible. Let’s wait and see what transpires.

“Aidkom mabrouk” (have a happy festival of l’Aid).

Mohamed Rebai
info@kairouan.org