The “haj” (pilgrimage) is one of the five pillars of Islam with the “chahada” (the profession of faith” It is not of divinity apart from Allah and Mohammed is the envoy of Allah”) “çalat” (prayer) “zakat” (money giving) “çiyam” (fast).

El Koraâ- Drawing lots

Each year 10.000 “hajs” (pilgrims) leave Tunisia to Mecca to perform Hajj. Each government has an appropriate quota in the month of rajab which is 5 months in advance.

It is the voyage is official, regulated by the state for conveniences of displacement, health and comfort for the “haj”.

Others less fortunate continue to make the voyage by the route via Libya, Egypt and Jordan or the Black Sea. that costs less but too much tiring. There is nearly 10.000 km to traverse back and forth.

Formerly, our ancestor travel by horse or dromedary to generally make the way the night of 3H of the morning until midday except the winter when they circulate the day and at the beginning of the century “bil babour” (in boat) accosting with the wearing of Tunis or Goulette in departure for Jeddah in Saudi Arabia and it is the “barrah” (public announcer) who inform the public of the day of the departure.

Preparations

As soon as the name of the lucky haj is announced to be on the list leaving for the pilgrimage in Mecca. He/She start buying purification clothing from the market, will prepare “benadek” (chopped meat pellets) at the house, the “bessissa” in small bags of approximately 50g of which he/she will use in the holy places.

Tachwiq

It is an old tradition which completely disappeared here few years ago.

The haj organizes the evening before the departure day an animated activity led by the meddeb which make the “khatm” the “mouldia” or the “soulamia” in position of circle stressing a ritual with their canes until dawn :

"waslat waslam alik ya rasoul allah ya haj saffi nitek wamchi watrouk el baïda walgariba wla tkhammamchi wandeh sidi bou saïd wa mbarek al habchi ysahellek fi tarig wa rafig gabl ma tamchi"

والصلاةوالسلام عليك يا رسول الله يا حاج يا حاح صفي نيتك و ا مشي واترك البعيدة و القريبة و لا تخممشي وانده سيدي بو سعيد و مبارك الحبشي يسهلك في الطريق و الرفيق قبل ما تمشي
بااله يا مولاة البيت أعطيني بسيسة بالزيت الله لا تحليلك بيت بجاه يا رسول الله
عندكم ان شا الله

The departure

The day of departure, the Haj will leave to the airport of Monastir in a convoy of cars and trucks in a vibrating movements, surveying the streets of the city while carrying the flags of Tunisia. They will make a small turn around sidi sahbi for “ziyara” and “fatiha”.

The return

The day of the return it is the same convoy of vehicles which will leave to its greeting.

The “haj” does not forget to bring back from the holy places some memories gifts “arrakia” (white caps) “sebha” (counting beans), “ajar” (keffieh), “takrita” (silk scarf), “bekhour” (incense), “louban”, barks of “swak " to bleach the teeth, “kohl” for the eyes, small crafts where one can look at the holy places, of water “zemzem” which distributed on the “hallab” (copper bowl) to the people who come to present their wishes while spraying them with the “merach zehar” (rosy water). People prepares also the “assida” for the luck.

The same evening, the ceremonial of wishes continues with the “mouldia”.
one prepares the tea, the white coffee “kahwa bitha” (lemon juice). The haj changes his/her oriental clothes by the “jebba tounsia”. Congratulation haj.

Formerly to be distinguished, the haj carries a red turban (disappeared). Only the Haj nickname will stick to him during the rest of his life.

Mohamed Rebai
info@kairouan.org